Although many fashion publications may focus on the overused and passé best dressed/worst dressed sartorial binary, I’m more interested in the origins of the theme and its representation at the Met Gala. Were the same fashion industry attendees of this event also lined up at SEX, the now-legendary fashion boutique in London that Vivienne Westwood once owned? Did these attendees in high-end couture also mosh at a Minor Threat show in some esoteric venue? These few examples do not necessarily essentialize the subculture. That is to say, the definition of what is Punk may not be in a vacuum. My point is this: when underground movements are recontextualized as “couture” is when the masses notice. Only the sanitized version of what appears to be “Punk Rawk” at the Met Gala only seems to be fully embraced by attendees of the event.

The theme, fortunately also had its critics. For example, Grace Coddington, the fiery creative director at Vogue gave an interview at the Gala, saying, “I’d like to see some real punks in here, some real street punks. But I doubt they were invited,” reinforcing the exclusionary nature of high-end fashion events. At least Coddington had the candidness to articulate something so apparent at this highly coveted event. It is convenient for the Met Gala to take away the characteristics of this movement that has little, if anything, to do with couture. It is also problematic to exclude and overlook figureheads who were central to the night’s theme, and more importantly, the movement itself.

To quote Richard Hell, the lead Punk Rock singer of his 70’s eponymous band, Richard Hell and the Voidoids, “I live in a blank generation.”

Stella McCartney on the far left, and the knock off by Asos on the right.

Have you ever wondered why the cycle of fashion has been speeding up? One fashion week ends only for another one to begin. It seems like a trend barely has time to take its first breath before it dies and gets replaced by something new, right?

As it turns out, the side effect of plagiarism in fashion is the emergence of fashion trends. Trends exist because fashion can’t be copyrighted. Fashion design is “utilitarian,” and anything considered utilitarian (like cars, clothing and food) can’t be copyrighted. The logic goes that these “everyday” things are so important in our society, that if someone were to hold power over them, we’d likely all be walking around naked, eating raw and getting around on horseback. Fashion is so fundamental to our daily lives, and that also makes it a creative free-for-all. A plagiarists buffet if you will.

And so it becomes quite easy to find a dress that looks remarkably like a Stella McCartney on Zara’s, or H&M’s shelves. These companies are so affordable and accessible that trends end up spreading all over the world more quickly. Which of course means that they become uncool more quickly as well. For trend-setters wearing what everyone else is wearing is painful (and not to mention, unprofitable), so they move on to the next thing almost faster than you can blink.

Kenzo on the left, and the imitation by Oakley on the right

Very recently, as a response to all this, what designers started doing is making deals and collaborating with some of the most popular fast fashion giants in order to take back control, and make a nice dime while they’re at it. But what they’re essentially doing is beating the copiers to it and copying themselves before the copiers do.

Gucci top vs. Guess bottom; Chloe top vs. Jeffrey Campbell bottom; Wendy Brandes top vs. Topshop bottom;

People think that imitation destroys creativity, but we have this wild and crazy notion that perhaps imitation can be good for creativity. First of all, it definitely forces you to up your game. As a response to rampant copying, designers started to create things so crazy and beautiful that they’re impossible to replicate. At least cheaply. And for those things that can be replicated cheaply, well there’s plenty of good in that too: It democratizes fashion, and makes it accessible to everyone from any socio-economic level. It makes fashion less of a snobby upper class thing. And it also needs to be said, that Stella McCartney is very unlikely to loose her customers to Forever21. Maybe, just maybe the people that shop at Stella are not the same that shop at Forever?

Without the safety blanket of copyright protection, designers have raised fashion to the level of art. Without plagiarism, there may never have been haute couture as we know it today (let images of couture McQueen and Pre-Melt-Down Galliano sashay across your mind for a second). Now, consider the possibility that perhaps it was all worth it. Perhaps, like everything else, even copying has a silver lining.

]]> http://blog.lonewolfmag.com/?feed=rss2&p=2452 1 http://blog.lonewolfmag.com/?p=2337 http://blog.lonewolfmag.com/?p=2337#comments Mon, 25 Mar 2013 17:40:55 +0000 Editor in Chief http://blog.lonewolfmag.com/?p=2337 Although there are a million things written about how the fashion industry promotes negative body image, here at Lone Wolf Magazine we chooses to remain optimistic. Call us romantic, but we sense a shift in the air and a light on the horizon.

All around us there are genuine signs that we’re slowly moving towards an aesthetic of authenticity, simplicity and genuine humanity. Gone are the over-photoshopped editorials of old (ok, not completely gone, but they’re certainly no longer reigning supreme). Instead, stylists and photographers the world over are embracing a “real-girl” look. Skin is kept natural, and makeup less. Hair is largely left alone, except when it is artificially (or not, we can’t be sure) made to look unwashed. The overall style and feel of these images is pure and unaffected in the most beautiful sense.

Our favorite new model Maggie Maurer with Elmer Olsen Models

Recently, the industry’s taste for unconventional beauty has only gotten more potent. It’s the result of a quick succession of events, starting, we believe from that whole hipster thing no one really wants to talk about. Big thanks so Alexa Chung and Chloe Sevigny here. They made it ok to look a little off, a little disheveled and perfectly imperfect.

Alexa Chung

Chloe Sevigny

When Lara Stone suddenly appeared looking every bit a real woman she made it ok again for supermodels to be curvy. She was quickly followed by Crystal Renn who, by the way, completely devoured (pun not intended) her skinnier opponent in the “One Size Fits All” editorial in V Magazine. Renn’s sucess resurected the careers of formerly “too curvy” models like Laetitia Casta.

Lara Stone for Vogue UK

Crystal Renn, and the other one, for V Magazine

But perhaps the most noticeable and exciting shift is our new love for beauty in all stages of life. Ever since model Kristen McMenamy burst back on the scene with her gorgeous head of grey hair, we’ve seen a ripple effect through the entire industry. In an instant, you saw big-name companies, like American Apparel, which chose the silver haired Jacky O’Shaughnessy as the new face of the company. The iconic 1950s cover model Carmen Dell’Orefice, who is now 82 years old, is still very much working the fashion circuit. Suddenly all our favorite models from the 80s and 90s came back, a little older, and all the better for it, snagging lucrative ad campaigns.

Kristen McMenamy for Jean Paul Gaultier

Linda Evangelista for Prada

Daphne Self, 80 year old working model.

Magazines like Elle, Allure, Maire Claire and W all had stories featuring celebrities and models not only without makeup, but without photoshop altogether. The public was clearly hungry for something real, honest and above all imperfect. And the industry listened. We don’t know about you, but that gives us a lot of hope for the future of fashion. Because ultimately, there is nothing more beautiful than honesty.

For our Autumn issue we are taking inspiration from somewhere deep inside ourselves, call it spirit, an altered state or call it magic. Whatever you call it, it’s the place where you feel connected and at one with the world. We wanted to dedicate an entire issue to the basic elements and everything they represent, going back to the basic truths about what it means to be human. We’re talking about earth, air, fire and water; sexual energy and magic; power and passion; earth and spirit; and the experience of an altering state of consciousness. Submissions are due by June 30th! Happy shooting!

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One day in 1958, when the abuse at home reached a boiling point, Anna ran away to Paris. Just to give you a grasp of this incredible woman’s bravery and resilience in the face of impossible obstacles, she arrived in Paris with the equivalent of $15 in her pocket, and spoke no French whatsoever. She taught herself how to speak the language by watching French movies, over and over again, until she understood what the characters were saying.

She was poor and starving when, by sheer chance, she was finally discovered, sitting alone at the infamous Les Deux Magots cafe, where everyone from Hemingway and Picasso to Camus used to meet. Her career started as a model, and reached its climax as one of Europe’s biggest movie stars. This new chapter in her life was marked by a passionate and volatile romance with famed French New Wave director Jean-Luc Godard who helped make her famous. Their relationship was painted with scandal, betrayal and attempted suicide.

In Anna’s own words, “It was a strange love story from the beginning. I could see Jean-Luc was looking at me all the time, and I was looking at him too, all day long.  We were like animals. One night we were at this dinner. My boyfriend, who was a painter, was there too. And suddenly I felt something under the table – it was Jean-Luc’s hand. He gave me a piece of paper and then left. I went into another room to see what he’d written.  It said, ‘I love you.  Rendezvous at midnight at the Café de la Prez.’ And then my boyfriend came into the room and demanded to see the piece of paper, and he took my arm and grabbed it and read it.  He said, ‘You’re not going.’ And I said, ‘I’ve been in love with him since I saw him the second time. And I can’t do anything about it.’  It was like something electric. I walked there, and I remember my painter was running after me crying. I was, like, hypnotized – it never happened again to me in my life.“

Jean Luc and Anna tore each other apart, argued, loved and hated each other all at once. Theirs was a chaotic but very passionate love, which eventually it burned out, neither willing or psychologically able to carry the relationship forwerd. But to this day Anna maintains that it was the greatest love of her life.So where is she now? One thing is for sure, she didn’t just fade away. Now at 73 Anna has four novels under her belt, a successful singing career as well as several plays and movies. In a world that’s both obsessed with chasing the next big thing, it’s important to take a moment to appreciate this incredible woman’s life and career.

Serge Gainsbourg avec Anna Karina on Vimeo.

According to a growing body of research, doing good things for others can serve as an effective treatment for depression. In a study conducted by behavioral psychologist David McClelland, even so much as witnessing acts of kindness can boost your immunity and overall sense of well-being. The reason for this is because kindness is contagious. According to a study published in the Proceedings of the National Academy of Science,  kind acts between people will spread like wild-fire. And that’s a fact.

It kind of makes you wonder, what would happen if just half of the people on this planet decided to do something kind for someone today.

And just in case you’re running empty on kind ideas, here are some great suggestions to get you started:

• Give a lottery ticket to a stranger.
• Buy the coffee order of the person behind you in line.
• Give another driver your parking spot (enjoy the baffled expression on their face).
• Randomly mail a letter to someone telling them how amazing you think they are.
• Put a quarter in a stranger’s expired parking meter.
• Volunteer at a nursing home. Spend time with an elderly person. Remember how lonely this time in life can be.
• Become a mentor. There are amazing organizations such as Big Brother and Sister, that give at-risk youth the opportunity to find the guidance and love they need in life.
• Give your seat to an elderly person on the bus, or to a mother that has her hands full.

Lately I’ve been a huge advocate of the “fuck it, I’m just going to wear the same shit every day” philosophy. All black, all white, all denim everything. It’s like wearing a uniform you know you’re always going to look good in. Classic, uncomplicated, unpretentious, unaffected and completely, gloriously just you. How simple and sincere. When life is waiting outside, and everything good is beyond your front door, do you really want to waste your time tearing your closet apart for that statement outfit? The world is waiting. Slap on that uniform and go have some fun. See our “Simplicity” themed Pinterest Board for inspiration!

All neutral with one pop of colour. Done.

All white on white on white…

Clean black and white lines, really putting the “fancy” in nothing fancy.

Men’s wear a la Annie Hall. Never gets old with zero brain cells wasted on getting dressed.

Bam! All black. Can I get back to writing my best selling novel now?

1. Unless you’re shooting fine art, remember to always work with only the very best (agency represented) models. You’re shooting editorial photography, which calls for an extraordinary subject. So choose a model that has an otherworldly essence. We know your sister/friend/neighbour is a beautiful girl, but is she so beautiful she kind of looks like something from another planet? Casting the right model is an integral step in getting your pictures published.

2. Switch up the wardrobe and submit at least 8 images! Frequently photographers submit 6 images, half of which feature the same outfit. Which means half of those images are unusable from a publication’s perspective. If you’re running low on clothes, we advise that you broaden the scope of your shoot. Why not photograph your models hands? Her feet? Why not grab a shot of the location? Sometimes these “non fashion” images carry a story in beautiful ways you never would have expected.

3. Get a hair stylist. There is nothing like a pro hair stylist to add that perfection to a shoot. Let’s face it, from a photographer’s perspective, makeup and/or skin is easy to “fix” in photoshop, but hair is next to impossible. A holy truth about humans is that we are endlessly fascinated with good hair. This is in part because it is such a rare thing to see in reality, and partly because it is incredibly difficult to achieve without the help of a professional. When you see a beautiful hairstyle you instinctively know how hard it would be to pull off on  your own hair. Make sure your model has “difficult to achieve hair” and you’re guaranteed to have editors gushing over your photos.

4. Be cohesive! Your approach to every editorial should be similar to a movie director’s. Each shot helps to tell the overall story. This is what we mean by “fashion editorial photography” – a series of cohesive images that serve some kind of narrative, usually fashion related. Sometimes things don’t work out the way you planned – it happens! So carefully edit out any wardrobe and makeup looks from your shoot that don’t flow with the rest of your theme.

5. Editor’s love nothing more than the good old analog camera and film combo. Throw in some pretty clothes and a beautiful model and you’re ready for publication. It’s sort of fool-proof strategy. There’s something irresistible about the texture and gritty quality of images that were taken the old school way. As we all know, in the age of digital photography shooting film can be such a pain in the ass. But keep in mind that, generally speaking, the more effort you put into your images, the more that effort is reflected in the quality of the art produced. Above all others, this is the golden rule for getting your work into a magazine: The harder you had to work for your images, the more likely that they will get published. Simple as that.

ALSO WORTH NOTING: there are exceptions to every rule, but if you want to play it safe we advise steering clear of the following fashion cliches: Flower wreaths in hair (every month we receive hundreds of photography submissions with this accessory featured throughout); Bathtubs (especially with flowers floating in them); Train-tracks; HDR: Broken Doll; Black balloons on a roof-top overlooking the city/empty parking lot; Model-as-magical-woodland-creature in H&M clothes.

Here we go, this is the last (and most probably the best) fashion magazine to be officially issued for dooms day. Hey, we’re allowed to toot our own horns a little here, every one person at Lone Wolf does the work of ten people. We’re damn proud. We can’t help it. Besides, tomorrow may not happen what with Armageddon upon us and all that. If there was ever a time to be honest, it’s now. So here are the many reasons you need to buy yourself a copy of our latest issue: A. You’re really into art and graphic design, and wish there was more good stuff like it in other fashion magazines, B. You’re a little, ok a lot, nostalgic for the past when things weren’t made quickly for mass consumption, but slowly and with great attention to all the little details that make things so great, C.  You’re really into our steamy Centerfolds (we’ve included a Moonrise Kingdom inspired one for you), D. You’re a fan of the super talented artists Eleanor Davis, and David Fullarton (our personal all time favorite contemporary artists), E. You’re into a magazine that keeps it real, in the indie sense that is. We’re so far from trying to pretend we’re fancy, that we probably come off a little fancy, don’t we? Ok, go on. We know that now you’re 100% convinced, so you might as well click and buy an issue here: OMG GET ME ONE NOW!!!